Bats, Dogs and IPads

So far I can sum this visit in three words; bats, dogs and iPads.

Let me start with this iPad contraption. Mary received this electronic slab from Gerry for her birthday two months ago. Gerry might not realize this, but he might have purchased his replacement as the love of her life. It is stuck to her like a teenager with a texting cell phone. She has her books on it, the grandkids pictures, Facebook (omg, lol, etc.), email, and answers to any and all questions via Google (last night's question involved the layout of the Southern Cross). But, it didn't come with a word processor so she downloaded an "ap"....God help me, I am using the lingo....called PAGES. It is decent but it thinks it is smarter than the typist. It corrects the spelling as one types. As a result, in proof reading there can be whole phrases that make no sense as PAGES has rewritten the words, all spelled correctly but nonsensical together. My spelling is awful, my intensions are good. PAGES spelling is perfect, but it has no real intensions. Hence this writer, Fern, ventures onto the following writing, hand in hand (finger in invisible force?) with PAGES, together. Reader beware.

Bats. I witnessed my first flyover the other night. It is winter here. It starts getting dark by 5:45 and then the flying behemoths start appearing one by one. Within ten minutes the sky is filled with flotillas of 'em. Well, flotilla isn't a great description, but it isn't a formation like geese or F-16's. Imagine letting go a fistful of fat, oblong, helium balloons into a good breeze. There appear to be many near collisions as they dip and dive in the breeze. The bat's sonar "sight" keeps them heading for their meal well within their defined traffic patterns.

Dogs, many many many dogs. Packs of adults and puppies wander the roads and neighborhoods. Mary remembers growing up in Tacoma when fenced backyards were unusual and everyone knew everyone's dog. Perhaps it is the same way here. However it seems this is a reflection of one of many broken systems here. There is a spay and neuter program, but there is no anesthetic available to do the surgical procedures, so more dogs and more cats. Missing Pearl, Mary's heart twists a bit when she sees them.

Enough, Fern.

Hello all, Mary here.

Thought I'd write some notes regarding my vacation from my vacation. Friday we flew to Western Samoa. Our air travel was via Polynesian Airlines. The plane sits 18 regular size people and their luggage. We all are weighed, suitcases, purses, and bodies. Solar powered calculator in hand the attendant sums the poundage (kilo-age) to determine how much baggage gets to go along. The flight from Pago to Apia is about 35 minutes over spectacular coast line, sapphire blue ocean, and reef protected white sand beaches. We sit directly behind the cockpit, and thus are able to read the gauges in case there was reason to panic...or think we should.

Our stay is in a lovely resort. We had great dinner that night at a harbor side open air restaurant. My dinner was a rich fish soup made with coconut milk. Dennis had tuna and Anne had an eggplant parmesan. Her Italian meal was made even better when we shared some tiramisu, probably the best I have ever had. (Fern is nagging me that all of this is boring...). My point is that this island is much more dependent on tourists and caters to them in style.

The Miss Samoa contest was held Saturday night, with a Fa'afafine show the night before. Fa'afafines are men who are raised as girls. Not really cross dressers, transvestites, drag queens, or any other category we would like to put them in as it relates to our white American culture. These men seem to be completely accepted into this culture.(I read a sports article about a family of boys, six of whom described as rugby-crazed and one a Fa'afafine.). As for the Friday night show, I am not sure what it consisted of, but I believe over the top theatrics and drama are involved. But the fact that it was the pre event to the beauty pageant says something.

Saturday Dennis rented a car and we toured the western side of the island. We tried to get into a resort called Aggie Gray's and were turned away. The whole place was been leased to the Survivor television crew. They are about one month from finishing and will have spent six months there. This season's locale is apparently this main island, Upolu, probably back into the jungly highlands that consume the center of the island. Denied entrance to that resort, on around we went. The road slowly diminished as we rounded then western end. While still passible, we slowly climbed up and over the mountainous headlands. We had spectacular views from a road that makes the road to Hana in Maui look like a superhighway.

We dined Saturday night with Dennis's boss, a Kiwi whose office is in Apia. He and his wife are just moving into a newly constructed home located on a bluff overlooking the ocean....spectacular...but then I am using that word too much.
The final excitement of this vacation from my vacation was flying back to Pago from Apia. A large group of very large Samoans were flying with us. While we were lucky to have our baggage make the plane, there were very few pieces that arrived with us. As I said, there are 18 seats. I think only 14 were occupied and little luggage made the flight...you do the math.

Dennis and Anne took Friday off from work. With the Labor Day holiday we had a great four days together, three in Western Samoa and full day of exploring this island. They are back to work today, Tuesday. I am still not sure of the driving, so I'm holding fort at the house, reading, writing, and relaxing.

The Wellborns are well established in this community. Between Dennis's insurance sales and Anne's law practice they have made many friends and contacts, both Palagi (white) and Samoan. While I know they miss their family, they seem quite content here and hope to stay for a while. I am not sure that I could. I strained to watch THE plane come in last night....the same flight I arrived on one week ago. With only two flights in and out per week, these landings are well anticipated.

More later regarding this place and maybe Fern will tell you more as to what she really thinks about the state of affairs here in American Samoa.

Mary

P.s. The "g" sound is pronounced "ng" sound....hence the "n"sound in Pago Pago.

P.p.s. Did you know the moon fills top to bottom here just south of the equator?